Step 1: STRIP

Methyline Chloride stripper is used on all smaller parts in an over-flow system as dipping the pieces could cause glue joints to fail prematurely. The rim is hand stripped using a paste chemical stripper.

Step 2: WASH

Lacquer thinner wash down. Most strippers state that water can be used. However, water has a tendency to lift the grain, effecting sanding later on in the process.

Step 3: SANDING (1)

We start with 180 grit sandpaper to remove any small dents or gouges. If necessary, we attempt to remove heavier dents and gouges by steaming with a hot iron and a wet towel. This initial sanding is also an inch-by-inch inspection. Blue tape is used to flag ALL imperfections.

Step 4: THE REPAIRS

Body filler is applied to very deep dents, gouges or small places where veneer is missing. In areas where larger pieces of veneer is missing, i.e. on cheeks of piano or the top edge of the rim, new veneer is selected, carefully cut, trimmed and applied.

Step 5: SANDING (2)

The final initial sanding is done with 220-240 grit sandpaper.

Step 6: WOOD FILLER

Paste wood filler is used on all parts to fill in the pores of the wood. This insures a more level surface.


Step 7: SEALER

Two coats of high solids vinyl sealer is sprayed.

Step 8: PRIMER (Black Lacquer)

Two to three coats of lacquer based, primer are sprayed. Wet sanding using 400 grit wet/dry paper is done between coats.

Step 9: TOUCH-UP (Natural finishes)

Pigments are applied to the small areas where body filler is used. We pay special attention to direction of the grain, specific shades of the wood, reproducing the natural look of the wood.

Step 10: TONING (Natural finishes)

Wood can vary in color from tree to tree or even from one section of a tree to another. Uniform color is achieved by toning the lighter colored pieces to the color of the darkest pieces. Toning using dyes allows the natural beauty of the wood to be more evident. Toning using pigments, however, masks the grain of the wood.

Step 11: TOPCOATS

4 to 6 coats of lacquer (whether clear or black) is sprayed on. Again, wet sanded with 400 grit wet/dry paper between coats. Prior to the last coat, the decal is applied to the fallboard.

Step 12: DRYING

All finishes are allowed to dry for a minimum of 2 weeks before final sanding and rub-out.

Step 13: FINAL SANDING

The final finish coat is first wet sanded with 600 grit paper to remove any dust particles or level any “orange peel” in the finish. For a higher gloss, additional wet sanding using 1500 then 3000 grit papers may be used.

Step 14: RUB OUT

All pieces (including the rim) are rubbed out in the direction of the grain using #0000 steel wool. A straight edge is used on both the top and bottom sides of the lids as to achieve straight and consistent lines. Using a soft terry cloth rag, the finish is finally burnished to the desired sheen.

Step 15: POLISHING

All brass pieces, including pedals, hinges, pins, and screws are polished to either a mirror finish or a brushed finish, depending on the customer’s wishes or to what would have been original to the piano.

Step 16: FELTS AND BUTTONS
New rubber buttons are installed and felt is replaced on all parts where required.

Step 17: FINAL ASSEMBLY

The action is reinstalled along with the keys (uprights and spinets). Pedals, hinges, cheek blocks, keyslip, lid props, and fallboard are assembled.


Step 18: FINAL INSPECTION
Once everything is reassembled, The piano is inspected and wiped down to remove any fingerprints or smudges.


Conclusion:
This is a general outline of our piano finishing procedure, intended to give our customers an idea of the care and attention your piece will receive. This is not, however, intended as an absolute guide to piano finishing.

There are websites that give information on “Do it Your Self” refinishing. These websites encourage the use of products such as Polyurethane or Spar varnishes, catalyzed varnishes, Polyester and Conversion finishes. These finishes should NEVER be used in refinishing fine period furniture or pianos. These finishes are non-reversible, and can (and many times do) devalue the piece and can, in fact, do damage that can not be fixed.

The results achieved by practiced professionals will rarely be attained by the average person. For lack of better terms: DON’T TRY THIS AT HOME!